First, disconnect the negative battery terminal.
This is ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY. You will be cutting and connecting
wires to your vehicles PCM. Any spark or discharge can permanently
disable both your PCM and the S-AFC.
Next, locate an appropriate mounting spot for your S-AFC. The bracket
and tape included will give you a wide range of options. We chose
to mount ours on the bracket, then wedge in between the gap at the
top of the center AC vents. This has held extremely well even during
violent maneuvers. If you want a sleeper look, you can mount it
lower,or even in your glovebox. But really folks, who would buy
this thing and then hide it? The only drawback to where we mounted
ours, is that it is plainly visible from the outside or the vehicle.
Most folks in our area have no clue what it is, but savvy import
races will know, and wonder what else you have done. It also baffles
police officers, but don't ask us how we know that.
Once your S-AFC is mounted, you need to route the wiring harness
to the PCM. At this point it would be a good idea to leave the "signal
harness" disconnected from the S-AFC. This will prevent any
possible damage due to incorrect wiring.
Now comes the fun part. If you have a soldering iron, and heat
shrink tubing, I would suggest you use it. We were short on time,
so we just used crimp-type barrel connectors. This is not advisable
due to the possibility of the connections coming loose.
Please note that these instructions apply to the OBD II PCM found
in the 1996+ DOHC S-Series. The S-AFC will function in the OBD I
S-Series. You should consult your Factory Service Manual for correct
wire colors before proceeding.
OBD II S-Series PCM
Find the Light Green wire from the J2 PCM connector (small blue
connector). This is the MAP Sensor signal wire. Cut the wire and
strip both ends. Crimp the included male fitting to the wire leading
TO the PCM. Crimp the included female fitting to the other end of
the wire. This will allow you to bypass the S-AFC should the need
ever arise.
Plug the male and female fitting from the S-AFC wiring harness
in to the connections you just crimped to the PCM harness.
Locate the Pink wire from the J1 (large blue) connector. This is
the ignition power wire. Splice in the Red wire from the S-AFC harness.
Locate the White wire from the J1 (large blue) connector. This
is the Tach signal wire. Splice in the Green wire from the S-AFC
harness.
Locate the Dark Blue wire on the J2 (small blue) connector. This
is the TP Sensor signal wire. Splice in the Gray wire from the S-AFC
harness.
Locate the Black wire with white stripe on the J2 (small blue)
PCM connector. This is a tricky step so pay attention. Splice in
the Brown wire from the S-AFC. Now move about an inch or two farther
away from the PCM and splice in the Black wire from the S-AFC. This
is very important. If you do not splice these wires in separately
and it the proper location, the S-AFC will not function correctly.
Use wire ties to securely fasten all wires on either side of their
connections. This will keep a misplaced toe under the dash from
ripping apart all of your work. Use wire zip ties to route the "signal
harness" back to the S-AFC connector. Finally bundle all unused
wires. Don't worry about them. The S-AFC was designed to function
on several different vehicles. Unless you are installing on a 300ZX
TT or an RB20DETT, it is highly unlikely that you will use all of
the wires.
Now you can close everything up, and reconnect your negative battery
terminal. |
